The best places to go in Brazil, according to a Brazilian

The geography of Rio de Janeiro makes the city the most beautiful in “my” world.
It is challenging to select a handful of the best destinations from a country the size of Brazil, equivalent to Oceania and almost the size of Europe, but here goes, writes Carlos Marcondes
Rio the Wonderful – how Rio is affectionately known in Brazil. And it fully deserves its fame. As a travel writer, I have been to almost 70 countries and I can say with ease that the geography of Rio de Janeiro makes the city the most beautiful in “my” world. There is the famous Guanabara Bay and iconic beaches such as Copacabana, Ipanema and Barra da Tijuca, which are framed by tropical forests and mountains, as well as Pão de Açúcar (and its cable car) and Morro do Corcovado, where Christ the Redeemer reigns with open arms.
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The charming culture of the cariocas (the locals’ nicknames) is infectious, and their relaxed, roguish and smiling lifestyle is equally addictive. Until 1960, Rio was the nation’s capital (today it is Brasília) and it is vibrant with music, its passion for multiple sports (especially football and volleyball) and the bohemian lifestyle. Feel this as you wander through the historic neighbourhood of Lapa – the best place to feel the energy of the so-called Rio bars, which serve ice-cold draft beer, typical snacks such as fried cassava and national dishes such as feijoada. There, live music sets the tone for the sound of Brazil, with samba, bossa nova and contemporary funk.
In addition to visiting the attractions above, it’s worth planning a few hours to get to know the charming historic neighbourhood of Santa Tereza in the central region, watch the sunset at Pedra do Arpoador – on the namesake beach – and be sure to go to Pedra do Sal, where on a Monday you will find yourself in a vibing Afro-Brazilian alley, foot-tapping and hip-swinging to a traditional samba show offered free of charge.
Iguaçu, in the Tupi language (of the original people), means “big water”. Located in the south of the country, in the city of Foz do Iguaçu, a triple border region between Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. It is here you’ll find another example (of the 24 in Brazil) that is a Unesco World Heritage Site. When you enter the National Park and feel the humidity in the air, and hear the plummeting waters of 275 waterfalls, you will quickly realise that you are in front of one of the most fascinating spectacles on the planet.
Allow at least two days: one to see the Brazilian side, which provides a more panoramic view, with well-organised trails, surrounded by tropical forest, and another on the Argentinian side, where it is possible to get closer to the falls through dizzying walkways. On either of these days, it is well worth taking the speedboat ride through the spray: the best shower you’ll ever take. Another unmissable tour is a helicopter flight which provides spectacular views. If you have time, experience the diversity of bird life at Parque das Aves, in addition to the Marco das Três Fronteiras tourist complex and the Itaipu Hydroelectric Plant which is the largest generator of clean energy in the world.
One of my favourite destinations in Brazil is far from the coast. The Historic Cities in the state of Minas Gerais are fascinating. I am referring mainly to the golden cities: Tiradentes, São João Del Rey, Ouro Preto and Diamantina. They reveal the heritage of colonial Brazil, the riches of which were usurped by the Portuguese (gold and diamonds), and exploited mainly in the first half of the 18th century.
Just to give you an idea of the unique character of these cities, Ouro Preto has 12 charming churches spread across the hills of its historic centre, all accessible along beautiful paths.
The route that the Portuguese took to take their treasures to Europe has now become a tourist route known as Estrada Real. There are four main paths, with “the Old” one being the most popular; a 710km route that leaves from mountain top Ouro Preto to the tiny port of exuberant Paraty, on the south coast of the State of Rio de Janeiro.
If time does not allow you a bucket-list mountain-to-coast pilgrimage then it’s possible to visit these colonial gems in five days by car. Start in Ouro Preto and the pretty neighbouring town Mariana, go south for three hours and do Tiradentes and São João Del Rey. Enjoy history, architecture, gastronomy (for me, the best in Brazil), art – like those of the fascinating master Aleijadinho – and a landscape of mountains that hide countless waterfalls and where you will meet welcoming people. The Mineiros (locals) are one of the most affectionate and friendly in the country.
When I, maddeningly, 22 years ago, crossed more than 50km of a dazzling white Dune Desert, in just two days, barefoot and drinking water from the lakes, I was convinced that I was in an otherworldly setting. I was in fact, in one of Brazil’s pearls. It took a while, but not long ago, the world got to know it with the announcement that the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park is now a Unesco World Heritage Site.
It is the largest dune field in South America, but instead of a waterless desert, Mother Nature has provided this white backdrop with more than 36,000 blue lagoons, topped up by rainfall in the wet months.
It is one of the most photogenic destinations on the planet; with contrasts of colours and shapes in constant movement. Two picturesque towns are on opposite sides of the park: Santo Amaro and Barreirinhas. The latter is where the main 4WD tours depart to access the lagoons and dunes. The charming village of Atins has great inns, almost at the foot of the white sands of Lençóis. A must-see is visiting the Queimada dos Britos fishing community, made up of just 200 people. It is as if time has passed by, leaving this village isolated yet content, in the middle of a fascinating, tropical desert.
Salvador emanates energy. It’s also the capital of Bahia, a northeastern state. It was in Salvador that the famous Capoeira was born, a mix of martial art and dance, created by slaves brought from Africa.
It is also where Samba was born, although it developed as a child in Rio de Janeiro. Salvador is also home to spectacular writers and musicians. The historic centre of the city is where the Pelourinho neighbourhood shines. It’s a melting pot of colours with fabulous colonial buildings spread across cobblestone slopes, where every February, millions of people “play and dance” in one of the most popular carnivals in the country.
The cuisine is unique and is best enjoyed in the bohemian neighbourhood of Rio Vermelho, where you’ll find great restaurants serving iconic dishes, featuring fish and seafood such as Acarajé, Moqueca, O Vatapá and Bobó de Camarão.
It is also compulsory to visit the Mercado Modelo, the Igreja do Senhor do Bonfim – famous for the colourful ribbon bracelets that adorn its facade, Farol da Barra and Elevador Lacerda, which divides the city of Baixa from Alta. It’s difficult to explain the energy of Bahia, but, believe me, it will move you.
The Amazon is immense and covers six nations. Almost 60% of it is in Brazil but much of it is almost untouched and only determined travellers are willing to face days in small boats to reach these remote regions. When we talk about visiting the Amazon, we start mainly from two capitals, Manaus (Amazonas) and Belém (Pará).
There are several tour options for both cities with daily mini-expeditions into the forest. It is no exaggeration to say that Belém is the gastronomic capital of the Amazon, portrayed at the Ver-o-Peso market, one of the oldest and most fascinating in South America. It is also from the capital of Pará that the speedboats take you to Marajó, the largest river-sea island in the world, full of beaches, bars and accommodation typical of northern Brazil.
From Santarém, another large city in the state, you reach Alter do Chão, a small village on the banks of the Tapajós River that allows travellers to make contact with local people, and a complete eco-tourism experience, with immersion in the forest and encounters with sweet pink dolphins.
Manaus is the base to access the incredible Anavilhanas National Park, the second-largest river archipelago in the world, in a biome with around 400 islands and 60 lakes. It is an immense water labyrinth, in a region that has embraced sustainability and has shown Brazil how environmental preservation and ecotourism can generate positive and transformative impacts on riverside communities. Each visitor who bathes in the Amazon waters leaves convinced that the world needs to keep the so-called “Lung of the World” alive and preserved.
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Rio de Janeiro with one stopover with American Airlines, LATAM and Qantas.
DETAILS
visitbrasil.com/en